HomeTOOLS & MATERIALS RESOURCEBUILDING THE ARMATURE- Interior Tube Part- Exterior Hexagon Part- Top Cap Lid Assembly- Armature Base Assembly- Pipe Clip Assembly- LampshadeTHE MUD- Mixing the Mud- Applying the Mud- CuringSTAINING THE STONEWIRING COMPONENTS- Installing the Lights- Wiring the LightsCUSTOMIZATIONSPrintable Shop Version

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STAIN IT

The Masons Select clear concrete stains are a really great product.

They are transparent stains that give a finished look very similar to acid stain but without the danger and difficulty to use.

You need to be aware before using these stains that the freshly applied wet stain will not be how it will look after it dries. Some colors are more extreme than others.

In fact, some of their colors will look like an altogether different color when they are wet while others just wont show up at all until they are dry.

This again is a similar characteristic of acid stains.

1) Get all of your tools and equipment set up and raedy.

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2) Gently tip the column and the top cap lid over and stain the bottom.

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3) Brush on your main stain color. You don’t need to worry about getting it into every little divit, dent and crevice as these spots will be filled with antiquing color anyways and even absorb the antique color better not having the main color in them.

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4) If your using multiple stains for the main color, apply one at a time in streaks and patches overlapping the edges of each color until the whole thing is covered. Certain stain colors are very similar to each other and work well for this giving the finished project an excellent look.

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5) Don't forget the lid, to avoid brush streaks just get it covered and the dab away any brush streaks.

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6) Let the main stain dry. Once it’s dry to the touch you can see the actual color results. If you want it darker, apply another coat at this time. For multiple colors, hit the same patches with the same colors. Let it dry to the touch again and repeat until you get the desired look.

ANTIQUE IT

The antiquing process usually done in black paint will add depth making it look real.

For the antiquing paint it’s not real critical what you use as it will be in all of those divits, dents and crevices we were talking about earlier which will help protects it from the elements.

I personaly like to use “patio paints” with a few drops of water to thin them. Spray paints work though you need a mask and lots of fresh air ventilation. Whatever paint you choose I would recommend only that they are made for outdoors.

1) The antiquing paint needs to be a liquid and some, such as craft paints are quite thick. For thicker paints, squeeze some in a small container (but big enough for the paintbrush to fit) , add just a few drips of water and stir thoroughly. Repeat this process until its diluted down to a liquid.

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2) You will need to thoroughly and repeatedly clean your - soon to be paint soaked rag. Have a large bucket of clean water ready or be near a garden hose and wear waterproof rubber gloves.

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3) A) Brush on or spray on your antique paint. Different paints will dry at different rates so just do a small area at first and expand as you learn the particular paint your using.

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B) Be sure to get this paint into all of the divits, dents and crevices. You may need to sort of scrub it in with the paintbrush bristles or spray it straight into them rather than on an angle. If you leave any divits dents or crevices white mortar it will look artificial.

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4) As soon as you have a small area well covered, use a damp rag and wipe off only the surface paint being careful to leave the antique paint in all of the divits, dents and crevices. The previously applied and dried main stain will keep it from absorbing into the surface and staining it totally black.

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5) Once you’ve covered and wiped the entire project, you can repeat the process but only in small areas and spots wiping more or less antique paint to get some variance in the surface. A good way to leave some really dark areas is to use your rag tightly wadded like a sponge and dab it off.

HIGHLIGHTS

Highlights are lighter colors just lightly touched to the surface of the highest spots. They need to be used carefully and sparingly but if done correctly they can be fantastic bringing your stone to life. Once again, I like "Patio Paints" but un-diluted.

1) Just lightly touch your paintbrush bristles in the paint and paint a piece of scrap newspaper or cardboard until it's just leaving light color. Then just lightly brush barely touching the project and applying almost no pressure. Be sure the stain underneath is thoroughly dry before adding highlights so that if you get to much, you can easily wash it off and try again.

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PATINA

So now you’ve got your “stone” looking quite excellent, but the contrast is just a bit to strong. One of the great things about Masons Select stains is their green patina. A patina is a sort of film of erosion that develops on the surface of some metals, often in green. This patina stain is more transparent than their other colors. It successfully blends all the colors nicely together and at the same time gives your “stone” a nice weathered or aged appearance.

1) Just brush on a coat over the whole thing, Don't worry about getting it in all the divits, dents and crevices. It goes on green but fades as it drys.

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To complete the stain and prolong it's life, you can apply a coat of Masons Select clear sealer.


3 coats uneven Masons Select Sandstone - Antiquing black

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Same as above with a very light highlight in a mossy green.

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two coats Slate - black antique

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Same as above with a heavy mossy gree highlight

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Antiquing is an excellent color process because if the finished product gets chipped or scuffed a little black paint or even a permanent marker can easily repair it.


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